Note: Most resin 3D printer vats are designed so you can replace just the FEP film. However, some manufacturers use proprietary systems where the FEP film is pre-mounted to a frame, meaning you’ll need to purchase a complete replacement unit instead of just the film.
Please check which type your printer uses before starting.
Tools & Materials Needed
- Replacement FEP film
- Allen keys (size depends on your printer model)
- Clean microfiber or lint-free cloth
- Sharp blade or hobby knife
- Gloves (to avoid fingerprints or resin contact)
- Paper towels and isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning)
Step 1: Remove the Vat
Before doing anything, make sure you're wearing the correct PPE. Resin is toxic and can irritate your skin, so always wear nitrile gloves and consider using safety glasses when handling uncured resin or cleaning parts.
Carefully remove the vat from the printer and place it on a clean, soft surface like a microfiber cloth to avoid scratches. Make sure the vat is completely empty and cleaned of any remaining resin before proceeding.
Step 2: Remove the Screws and Old FEP
Using the correct Allen key, remove all screws from the bottom of the vat. Separate the metal frame, taking care not to bend it. Gently peel off the old FEP film. Remove any remaining residue or stuck material.
Step 3: Inspect and Clean the Frame
Check for any damage, leftover resin, or burrs along the frame edges that could cut or stress the new FEP film. Use a blade or fine file to remove anything sharp or uneven.
This step is very important. Failing to clean and inspect the vat frame properly can lead to the new FEP film being punctured or scratched during installation, which means you'll have to remove it and start over. Take your time—it's worth doing right the first time.
Once you're sure the frame is clean and smooth, wipe both sides thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to remove oils or debris.
Step 4: Prepare the New FEP Film
Lay the new FEP film over the bottom frame. It should cover the full opening with some overhang. Carefully place the top frame over it to sandwich the film in between.
Before you start bolting it down, double-check that:
- All the screw holes align properly with the holes in the plates and the vat
- The bolt hole chamfers on the top plate are facing the correct direction to accept the countersunk bolts
Getting this wrong can cause the screws to sit unevenly, which may lead to uneven tension or even cracking the frame.
Step 5: Secure the FEP Film
Start installing the screws, but don’t fully tighten them yet. Use a crisscross pattern to evenly distribute tension across the frame.
To help get the screws through the film, you can carefully pierce each hole with a sharp object like the tip of a knife or scissors. Do this one hole at a time:
- Pierce the film over a hole
- Install a screw gently through that hole
- Then move on to the next
This method reduces stress on the film and helps maintain alignment as you work your way around the frame.
Once all screws are in, go back and firmly tighten them in the same crisscross pattern.
Tip: Avoid over-tightening—this can warp the film or strip the threads.
Step 6: Trim Excess FEP
Carefully trim the overhanging film with a sharp blade, staying close to the edge but not cutting into the frame.
Step 7: Reinstall the Vat
Inspect the film for even tension—it should be taut and smooth across the entire surface. It should literally sound like a drum when tapped. If you lightly tap it with your fingertip, it should sound like the most amazing bongo you've ever heard.
If the film looks loose, wrinkled, or uneven, you may need to disassemble and try again to avoid failed prints or resin leaks.
Once you're happy with the tension, reinstall the vat back into your printer and you're good to go.
Notes
- Dispose of old FEP film responsibly—it can be sharp and may contain cured resin.
- If you see ripples or slack in the film, disassemble and realign before printing.
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